"The History and Culture of Surfing."
From a talk in Dennis Phillips’s Design Theory class
“I always claim my first job was sitting on wood balsa planks in Malibu because they needed weight.”
“Indonesia is the land of lefts and in fifty years of surfing, I’ve gotten three of the best waves I’ve ever ridden there”
“Just keeping warm and dry is challenging and eating can be just as tricky”
“He started experimenting with these flying suits and carried it a step further than most by using slots in the wings”
“Our room was sixteen dollars a month, split two ways”